Walking Stick Stand

Walking Stick Stand Woodworking Project

This is the easiest woodworking project demo explanation. Walking sticks and umbrellas are convenient to be near your entrance, but catching is another. Some hang their bars or umbrellas in the living room closet, while others put them behind the floors in the back corner. In both cases, they are usually not ready and when you get wet, where do you put them?

The bar stand offers an attractive and convenient way to store your canes and umbrellas. With this stand, they will always be there when you need them, and when you’re done with them, you’ll have a place to get wet, not to get wet.

When choosing stock for this project, try to find quarterly timber for dimensional stability as well as appearance. When contrast tree types are used, the stand appears best. Except for the legs and the bottom trim, all parts are made from stock.It is best to grind your stocks and make all your routing with a single installation because this project is coming together. This will provide a smooth installation.I used this walnut and alder version oil which penetrates with natural wax polish It is best to finish all parts in advance to avoid finishing problems with .blue.

Making Legs

Make leg gaps from solid or glued stock. Using cut timber, you can create a void without serious grain matching problems from the stock of bir oğun.

Cut Panel Parts

I use a matching tongue and groove cutter set on a table-mounted router for all panel configurations. Cut a tongue at the ends of the front, rear and side rails. I use a router table with a fence and right angle skid to cut the “x ¼” tongue along both ends of each rail board. Put them aside and repeat the process at the ends of the four lookout panels.

Walking Stick Stand

With the same installation, simply fill a tongue from the length of the walnut that cuts the slice using only a fence and the blocks will be cut off. Sand all parts of the parts at this stage. Be careful not to roll the pieces to the edges. With a high-quality tear-off blade on a table saw, divide each of the wooden panels into, ağı x ma bir stakes. Keep them out of the wood and put them aside. Then divide each of the rail panels into two small sections, 1 ve ⅛ and 1 ⅝ ⅝ respectively. Using a fence with the slit cutter, open a groove with deep ray width x üst kenar along the inner edges of the top and bottom rail. Use the same assembly to rotate a groove on the other side, holding the same side of the piece on the table, so that the tongue is completely far from the tongue. When you cut the fill blocks from the long gap, open some scrap to provide support. I recommend that a clamping device be made by directing a chute to a 1 ¼ “x 2” x 26 “scrap piece.

Sand the collectors to remove the saw marks. Use a hand plane to put a chamfer on the end of each face to provide some extra visual details. The actual dimensions of the parts may have slightly changed during sanding, so first test each panel. Remove the total width of the billets from the length of the groove and then divide by the number of filler blocks required for this panel. Use the corrugated scrap piece to support the walnut and cut the number of filler blocks you need for each panel.

Combine Panels

Using the clamping device you previously prepared, mount the panel without glue using a clamp on each rail and two clamps on the panel. When I’m ready for glue, I use a small brush of a ¼ ı artist to spread the glue in the gutters.

The upper part is a mitered frame with edges glued to the outer corners for increased durability. At the ends of the walnut pieces, I use a jig that cuts perfectly complementary angles and then glued the frame together using a tape clamp. After a glue night, I cut the gaps for the gutters and put them in place. Sand and paint the frame before final assembly. Place the grooves on the legs and cut them to get the tenon on the panels. Place the panel on the legs and transfer the places with the pen. Extend the lines next to a Veritas saddle frame. When embedding is finished, and the legs and use a hand plane to cut the bottom edges to reduce splinters. Apply the desired end. Test 4 legs and 4 panels, then attach and tighten the body of the stand. The upper frame is secured by biscuits and the base is held by the lower trim parts. They have a groove on the outer top and bottom edges and are attached to the stand with countersunk brass screws.

See the next bonus woodworking project Table Lantern for free.

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