Leg Chopping Scheme Of Woodworking Project
Start your woodworking project by placing the cuts on the legs. There are five separate connections on each leg. Three of them have puzzle joints and two embedding.
Please check in the woodcraft schemes which will help you. It doesn’t matter where you start, but I find the best way to focus on an attachment before moving on to the next one. To place the jigsaw joint, measure up from the bottom of the leg and mark a line with a square. Move the line on the front of the leg, and then mark another line of 5/16 inches above the line.
Cut the chopping using a thin saw. A dado with a dado on the face next to it should be left with a dado on the face.
You can do this with your table saw, but I’m trying to do most of my joinery with hand tools and leave the power tools to hard work.
Clean up the waste, taking care not to exceed your baseline. This should be repeated for the other two joints in each leg.
Be sure to keep the chopper on the same two faces. If not all of the joints are perfectly aligned, they are not installed correctly.
On the next legs, mark your first leg directly, rather than using your ruler. This will help prevent measurement errors.
After cutting all 12 jigsaw joints for the legs, proceed to the recessed parts. These are placed so that the cross-piece sits 1/8/8 “above the top of the leg. The size of this insert is not important as it does not carry loads and has no structural significance. 4” x 1/4 “and 5/16” depth. At the first tenon section, go to a depth of only 3/16 inches and then turn the foot and cut the other threads to full depth. however, I recommend to use a chisel to drill holes and then to open the hole.
Cross-section chopping Woodworking Project
Now when the legs are done, put them aside and start working on the cross pieces. The parts in the X-axis must be shaped differently from the y-axis parts. Divide the stock parts into two sets, so do not mix them.
It’s a really good idea to mark each piece with the corresponding joint on your legs. In these parts, you will cut three-fourths of the wood from the joint.
Measure at 5/8 “and draw a line around the stock. Use your leg stock to define the other side of your connection by placing it firmly on the line and marking the other side with pointing the knife.
Cut everything except a remaining 5/16 “x 5/16” section. This remaining part of the wood must then be rounded off because this part must rotate inside the groove in the leg. To do this, use a thin saw and cuts from each of the corners. Then use a chisel to cut the corners, turn down the slope.
Work slowly on your marked line because you don’t want to push through your shoulder and you don’t want to push visible wood out of the joint. Just remove enough to create a cylinder. If you remove too much, the cross piece moves in the joint. If you remove very little, it does not return.
Now cut the rest. They are cut in the same way as other parts, except that the middle parts are not rounded. You are aiming for a precise alignment with the vertical surface.
Cut 3/16 “, 1/4” from the rear and cut the threads on the shorter cross-pieces. The two tongues will face each other in the grooves, as the tongues will have to be cut at 45 degrees to enter the tenon.
Assembly Woodworking Project
Assemble the recessed and cut parts into two subassemblies. Start with the mortise and mortised piece, and then place the cross-links on the cross-link puzzle links and rotate it down to open the grooves for the remaining two sides. If the joints do not come out of the saw immediately, carefully spaced the edges of the cross pieces; Complete the installation by placing the next two tenon cross pieces and the square cross members.
Rotate the round pieces down to lock them in place. It is a precision assembly that requires a test fitting and precise peeling to achieve the perfect fit. Do not hurry. Don’t despair if he breaks a cross. The repeated paste can often repair. If necessary, you can always cut a new piece.
Now it’s time to add support to the electrical components. Parts used here were purchased from a store. To get support, you’ll need about a 1/4 “thick piece of wood from your socket and long enough for the two static sides of your frame.
Start by placing two 1/4 inch dovetail tails on each side of the flashlight. Use the socket to monitor and eject the center circle. Place the support on the second layer of the static sides and the position of the Swallow tail You will now need to remove this layer of the lamp to cut the dovetail tail. This will be covered with shade, so they can be cut quickly. place, you will no longer be able to dismantle the frame, so if you want to finish the front, it should be done now.
How you want to finish this piece is up to your personal taste. I’ve done other lamps that have been finished with a simple wafer layer, which is getting more intense treatment. I follow a modified version of Bob Flexner’s Arts and Crafts. Start by sanding 150.
There are too many people in this project. If you want to match the color colors, you will need to sand the last grain to get higher sand. For the last grain, I continued with 220, 320 and finished with 600. This leaves the last grain of stain, so long as it gets the same tone as the long grain. I took a coat of Minwax Special Walnut stain, waited 10 minutes and wiped the lamp with a clean cloth. Twenty-four hours later I applied a coat of Watco Dark Walnut Danish oil. I waited again for 10 minutes and wiped the lamp with a clean cloth. After 24 hours, I applied a layer of shellac, followed by a candle after 24 hours. I like to mix some of the stains with wax before application. This helps prevent the discoloration of light-colored wax in pores and corners.